Back in DC, now with pictures

I arrived safely back in DC last night, without incident. Today I've mostly laid around, relaxed, and most importantly, uploaded pictures. I've put up everything decent (mostly), except for the Cape Coast photos, because there are tons of those to go through.

Click here for all the Ghanaian goodness.

Being back is a little strange. Just about everything seems like a luxury. I mean, I'm sitting here with my air conditioner going, the radio going, typing on my laptop, with my car parked out front. This is all a little much sometimes. In all honesty, I feel a little guilty about all this good fortune. But then I realize that life is just different here, and by American standards mine isn't a life of extravagance. I guess what I'm saying is that there are different standards of normality from place to place. I can already tell that readjusting to the U.S. will be more difficult than adjusting to Ghana/Camp was, but I'll make it through. That is, if I can ever get my stomach to settle. :)

Random thoughts and observations

I had dinner with a former volunteer tonight and it reminded me that I should jot some things down here, in no particular order.

1. I still find myself wanting to do the really complicated West African handshake (the one that ends in a snap) when I see people.

2. People in both Ghana and London keep asking me where my accent is. I don't know exactly what accent they're looking for, but I wonder if I'm really all that geographically ambiguous in my speech.

3. Working on camp was really damn hard. In fact, it was almost like a 24 hour headache. The urge to run screaming from the building was a near constant companion.

4. Working on camp was infinitely rewarding and educational. I grew so much in such a short period of time. In peace cell/tribal leaders meetings, I always reminded those in attendance that it was an honor for me to sit among them and observe their dialogue, and it truly was.

5. I did a little laundry in the tub this morning (classy, I know). The water turned brown almost instantly. This means that I was really, really dirty for a month.

6. Don't tell anyone, but I sort of miss the sound of dirt and gravel crunching under my shoes.

7. As much as I complained about the complete lack of silence during my entire stay, I now find that I can't go to sleep without some background noise.

8. I calculated that I could live in relative luxury in Ghana for less than $7,000 per year. It costs me three times that to live a relatively ordinary existence in DC.

9. This whole "anything goes" mentality has really creeped in. It seems like it now takes a lot more to get me stressed out.

10. [off subject] I would like to go back to work in Parliament.

11. In spite of my growing appreciation for simple living, the ability to rapidly communicate with people is quite nice.

12. If I ever go back to camp (or a similar setting) again for any longer than a month, I may need to invest in some of that over the counter valium they sell in Accra.

13. I really need to lighten up sometimes.

14. I should probably be more serious and driven sometimes.

15. I'm really, really, really skinny. As in, you could fit a softball into my waistband with me.

16. My skinnyness and near constant hunger are nothing compared to what those on camp go through.

17. My life has been hard on many ocassions. It's really nothing compared to refugee life.

18. You really can't compare Western existence and developing country and/or refugee existence. They're just different.

19. Some people said I did beautiful work during that tribal leaders meeting, but I don't really believe them.

20. It's really frustrating to work your ass off and know you've only scratched the surface.

21. Ghana needs better quality alcohol.

22. I need to get used to this kind of work. It's going to be my life (maybe).

23. Community/grassroots peacebuilding or institutional/organizational/political conflict resolution? That is the question.

24. This list is now far too long, and thus here it ends.

Londontown

I arrived safely in London this morning, and travel was basically hassle free. I didn't get much sleep on the plane however. The trip has really effected me in a huge way, and while I feel like I did some good work, I know that in the scheme of things I've only made a miniscule dent in a gargantuan problem. It bothers me that the Liberian war was 100% preventable, and yet it raged for years. I met too many people with too many horrendous stories to really be able to justify the event in my mind. Further, I find it impossible to justify the complete apathy to the war the international community showed for so long.

Too many stories of kids walking from Liberia at age 10, not stopping until at least two hours after they heard the final bullet shot, just to be safe. It was Dayton's birthday Saturday, and he was telling me how he feels like in his years, he's accomplished nothing. He can't provide for his children as he would like, has no assets, and no real prospects. He needs to go to school to get better work, but can't afford to send himself and his daughters.

I found myself weeping on the plane after the lights were out. The whole thing came crashing down on me -- not the plane, the trip. Because of the chaotic nature of our work on camp, there was very little time to either reflect or even be alone. That meant I was suddently dealing with a whole lot at once. I'm glad I've got some rest time in London in order to allow me to properly reflect.

I have, however, rebelled completely against my usual appearance while on camp. I'm back to wearing jeans, which had been too easily dirtied and too hard to wash and too hot on camp. I also took my huge mop of hair and molded it into a full fauxhawk today. My clothes are a little looser since I definitely lost weight, but I'm still pulling off a pretty convincing English look. Being able to take a hot shower is also a huge relief. I missed this town, and am glad that I've been able to just pop back in and feel at home.

Anyway, time to roll out for the night. This fast internet connection is a huge luxury. Then again, everything I've seen since I got to the airport is a huge luxury now.

One final story. My donation to PCO includes my volunteer fee, my time of course, and now one timing belt for the car. It snapped on our way in yesterday, and they lacked the funds to get a new one. I had a lot of leftover cedis on me, so I just bought it. Better to buy the belt than have to deal with a Ghanaian taxi.

Time for back to the hotel and bed. Peace. L2E.

Obebini, I'm fine

Final post from Camp. I had a beautiful leaving ceremony this morning, with lots of singing kids. I also had a great last wekend at Kokrobite. And, the Tribal Leaders Forum workshop ended well, and I got many, many compliments. I was really worried about not having any sort of impact here, but I can certainly see, that at least with the forum, I've gotten a good thing going. Thus I can leave with a clear mind.

I have to head to the airport soon, but there will be a more substantive post later. So much to say, but so little time.

Wow.

L2E.

You mean these old cranks can actually get along?

Today was the first day of our two day appreciative inquiry workshop for the tribal leaders. We had about 30 people, out of 32 invited, which isn't bad. Unfortunately though, there was only one woman in the group. We can't do much to control that, however, since the various tribes and counties select their representatives to the forum. Nonetheless, the discussion was good. A few people didn't quite get the idea that the objective was to focus on positive things on the camp, rather than problems. Basically, we're looking at what good things we have here that can be built upon in order to solidify a spirit of peace and reconciliation on camp. In a place like this, if we just talked about problems, the conversation would last so long that most of the old men in the room would die before we finished.

We first discussed what unifying forces exist here that can be built upon, and then we discussed what big ideas or dreams we have for future activities. Tomorrow we'll get more into concrete steps and hopefully get a rough sketch of an action plan. I also hope that we start a little more promptly tomorrow, so I can get to the beach sooner. ;)

The conversation went well though, and those in attendance seemed to accept me as a facilitator, when I really half expected them to completely ignore the young white kid. But at the end of the day, they clapped for me twice, and the Chairman of the Elder Council extended his good wishes and personal thanks.

Yesterday I was pretty convinced this thing was gonna fall on its ass. The leaders of the Elder Council came to the office, where there was a dispute because one of them didn't get his ID card. It was all a little petty and easily resolved, even though it took two hours. Yet today they really seemed to get along and worked well in small, diverse groups.

Note to those trying to divide people into groups in Africa: do not use birth month as a means to organize people. The obsession with perfect order and regimented bureaucracy makes your life difficult when you realize the October-November-December group is massive and needs to be split up.

Also yesterday, Emmanuel and I went to the Kofi Annan Centre. I got a lot out of it personally, but they don't really do anything for grassroots stuff, so Emmanuel was a little down (plus intimidated by the place). Yet we did meet with a Liberian academic there who gave us some good contacts and a pledge of personal support.

Anyway, time for my final peace cell mobilization. Only 3 days left....

Warning: do not piss off the obroni

Yesterday at the office was explosive. I went in for the staff meeting, to find the rep for PCO's only NGO partner sitting in the rain, crying. Apparently Emmanuel had tremendously offended her, and the she finally walked out. I talked to her for awhile and found out the story, and then went to the staff meeting and went off like a firecracker. When you only have one NGO partner who has offered you funding, a market for the products from the women's center, and basically unfoundering generosity, you should be nice to their representative. Especially when they fly all the way out here to meet you. After they got an earful on sustainable management and the need for fundraising, I went back home.

Today is better. The toilet investigation is wrapping up, and I've been asked to facilitate most of the tribal leaders meeting this weekend, as well as speak at a camp peace concert this Sunday, to represent PCO's international volunteers. This means that my trip to Kokrobite for a final party will be a little short, but then again I like to work. Plus I'll have my time in London to relax.

Anyway, I've been runnning around all day again, so I need to get back to that. If you'd be willing to support a free school for refugees, let me know. I'm serious about the fundraising.

Teaching, drinking, and running around

Friday was a crazy day. I had to go to the office, mobilize in Zone 11 (which is huge - kinda like the camp suburbs), go to a peace cell project meeting, teach at the mother's center, go to the Liberian Refugee Welfare Council to discuss the tribal leaders thing, and then the peace cell meeting itself. It was a very very busy day, and I was exhausted.

I decided to chill this weekend, and thus far have done just that. A few of us went to camp yesterday to get some clothes made (it's cheap and it supports the camp economy). I'm getting a shirt that I'll pick up Wednesday. MD (the volunteer coordinator) and I then grabbed some lunch and checked out a dance troupe rehearsal at the cultural centre. The kids there were pretty good (and also pretty funny), and the drumming was excellent.

I returned home for relaxation, when Emmanuel and Dayton (new tribal leaders forum guy) showed up to take me for a drink. Emmanuel is also in the process of learning to drive, so we got to be scared for a few minutes. I thought we were just going to camp, but instead they took me to Kasoa (only big town between camp and Accra) to a nice place for plenty of drinking and an intense discussion of Liberian politics and history. The primary debate was whether or not Ellen Johnson Sirleaf could face war crimes charges. All in all it was fun, even in spite of the sickness that followed (I haven't been able to drink much here and my tolerance has gone down).

Today a group of us have come to Accra to use really fast internet and generall goof around. We're going to a vegetarian restaurant later, and possibly a jazz club as well. Should be a fun time. :)

Tomorrow, back to the grind for my last week. I'm both excited and sad about leaving. Oh well, it's been an incredible experience. I haven't gotten malaria, in spite of the mosquitos that sit and wait outside my net. I've also met some absolutely awesome people. Plus having the kids run around and say "Obroni, what is your name?" everytime I walk home is pretty entertaining too.

L2E.